Saturday, February 02, 2008

Appareled Amices, Dalmatic Collars and Argentinian News from the Fraternitas Christi Sacerdotis et Beatae Mariae Reginae

In the comments on Shawn's post on the ritus Lugdunensis the question of the collar of the Dalmatic (Spanish collarín, French colletin) came up.

Since this topic has come up before, and is connected to the appareled amice, which also has come up frequently, I thought it might be worthwile to translate the relevant paragraph by Fr. Braun:

"In the 12th century a peculiar, collar-like ornamentation of the amice came into use, which must have pleased enormously, since it quickly became common everywhere. It was applied at one of the two long sides, namely that one on which the bands to tie it were. It consisted either of a strip immediately embroidered onto the humeral or - and that was more common - of an initially only narrow, but later on broader galloon ca. 40 to 50 cm long, often decorated with embroidery, pearls and little metal plates. While vesting, the amice was put upon the head in such a way that the decoration stretched from temple to temple. Then the bands were tied around the breast, alb, stole, chasuble resp. tunicle or dalmatic were put on, and now the amice lowered by the back of the head in such a manner that the decorative strip resp. the galloon surrounded the neck like a collar:



"In the inventories this decoration is called, especially if it occurs in the form of a galloon: parura, collare, plaga, plagula, plica, gemma, prætexta, truncus, aurifrisium (auriphrygium, firsium), but also, probably because it lay upon the shoulders, or because it was a decoration of the humeral: humerale. [left out: German names]

"The described manner of ornamentation had its origin apparently in France, from where it spread throughout the entire Occident, not excluding Italy. Its heyday falls into the 13th and 14th century. With the beginning of the 16th century it gradually falls again into disuse, earliest in Rome, in Germany around 1600. In France it remained in rare instances, e.g. in Paris, until the end of the 17th, or even until the 18th century. It never became entirely extinct. For even now the parura of the amice is in use in the Ambrosian rite, at Lyon and in Spain, albeit not any longer attached to the amice, but as a loose collar, which however it seems to have already been here and there at the end of the middle ages.


DSCN0443


The above picture shows a 17th century Spanish amice collar (collarín) embroidered with thread-of-gold, from the arts and crafts museum of Berlin.

A contemporary example we can see in the following pictures of a missa sollemnis celebrated by the Fraternitas Christi Sacerdotis et Beatae Mariae Reginae in Galicia, Spain.


Speaking of this Spanish Ecclesia Dei Fraternity, - attention Argentinian readers - a member of its priestly branch, the Hijos Esclavos de Santa María Reina, has gone to Argentina and will stay there for a month. He will visit, together with a consecrated sister of solitary life of the Fraternity who resides in Argentina, various dioceses and groups of "Marian servitude" of the country to foster their dedication to the Blessed Virgin. They will also present and make known the spirituality of the Fraternity to various priests and laypeople. The Fraternity invites everyone who is interested in getting to know more closely the Fraternity to take advantage of the stay of Br Carlos María and meet with him. They point out that this could be an excellent opportunity for all those young people who feel a vocation to religious life - both male and female - according to the spirituality of the Fraternity of Christ the Priest and Holy Mary Queen. Contacts can be made through the email of the Fraternity.

More recent articles:


The Byzantine Paschal Hour
In the Roman Rite, the minor Hours of Easter and its octave are celebrated according to a very simple and archaic form, which consists solely of the psalmody, the antiphon Haec dies, and the prayer, with the usual introduction and conclusion. (Haec dies is labeled as an “antiphon” in the Breviary, but it is identical to the first part of the gradu...

Easter Sunday 2025
An icon of the Harrowing of Hell made in Constantinople in the late 14th century.Let all partake of the feast of faith. Let all receive the riches of goodness. Let no one lament their poverty, for the universal kingdom has been revealed. Let no one mourn their transgressions, for pardon has dawned from the grave. Let no one fear death, for the Savi...

The Twentieth Anniversary of Pope Benedict XVI’s Election
On this Holy Saturday, we also mark the 20th anniversary of the election of His Holiness Pope Benedict XVI. Let us remember with gratitude the gift of his papacy, his graciousness and good humor, his many wise and well-considered writings, his paternal love especially for priests and religious, but of course above all, his restoration to the Church...

Holy Saturday 2025
The Harrowing of Hell, by Duccio di Buoninsenga, 1308-11 R. Recessit pastor noster, fons aquae vivae, ad cujus transitum sol obscuratus est; * nam et ille captus est, qui captivum tenebat primum hominem: hodie portas mortis et seras pariter Salvator noster disrupit. V. Destruxit quidem claustra inferni, et subvertit potentias diaboli. Nam et ill...

Good Friday 2025
The table of the Epitaphios at the end of Vespers today at St Anthony the Abbot, the Russian Greek-Catholic church in Rome.For how shall we be able to know, I and thy people, that we have found grace in thy sight, unless thou walk with us, that we may be glorified by all people that dwell upon the earth? And the Lord said to Moses: This word also, ...

Desacralizing Lent
Christ in the Desert, 1898, by Breton RivièreI have been enjoying Peter Kwasniewski’s new book Close the Workshop, which argues that the old rite did not need to be fixed and that the new rite cannot be fixed. To support his argument, Kwasniewski begins with an analysis of the Second Vatican Council’s Constitution on the Liturgy, Sacrosanctum Conci...

Holy Thursday 2025
Thou, o Lord, didst command us to be partakers of Thy Son, sharers of Thy kingdom, dwellers in Paradise, companions of the Angels; ever provided we keep the sacraments of the heavenly host with pure and undefiled faith. And what may we not hope of Thy mercy, we who received so great a gift, that we might merit to offer Thee such a Victim, namely, t...

The Chrism Mass: Tradition, Reform and Change (Part 2) - Guest Article by Abbé Jean-Pierre Herman
This is the second part of an article by Fr Jean-Pierre Herman on the blessing of oils, which is traditionally celebrated at the Mass of the Lord’s Supper, and the recent reforms thereof; the first part was published on Tuesday. The French original was published on Sunday on the website of the Schola Sainte-Cécile as a single article. Fr Herma...

Spy Wednesday 2025
It is worthy and just that we should always give Thee thanks, Lord, holy Father, eternal and almighty God, through Jesus Christ, Thy Son, our Lord, Who willed to suffer for the impious, and be unjustly condemned for the wicked; Who forgave the praying thief his crime, promising him Paradise by His most agreeable will, Whose death wiped away our cri...

The Chrism Mass: Tradition, Reform and Change (Part 1) - Guest Article by Abbé Jean-Pierre Herman
We are very grateful to Fr Jean-Pierre Herman for sharing with us this important article about the Chrism Mass and its recent reforms. The French original was published two days ago on the website of the Schola Sainte-Cécile as a single article; it will be published here in two parts. Fr Herman is professor of liturgy at the Good Shepherd Institute...

For more articles, see the NLM archives: